Do you remember that feeling of driving without an instructor for the first time? Or riding a bike, landing a job, your first kiss, getting a good grade? First catching a green wave gives you that profound sensation of achieving something new, but it’s amplified by a million things. As the first surfers blazed their trails; expressing their freedom and exploring coastlines, they were often misunderstood and outcast. Much less appreciate that guys were out hunting for waves instead of working 9-5 jobs, so surfers were branded abnormal and lazy among other things. But In the 90s bleach-blonde surfer bum was the definition of ‘cool’. There were half a dozen surf mags on the shelves and every other t-shirt was covered in Californian surf prints; surf boards, palm trees, campervans. Along with the rest of my generation, my perception of surfing was lead by the media, brands and fashions, rather than the sport or lifestyle itself. I had a romantic notion of surfing in my head, but that’s all it really was, I was in love with the idea of surfing. For years I’ve been dreaming of a remote beach in the middle of the ocean where I can get off the radar and enjoy robinson’s life! My first connection with surfing […]